Day 23 – Making Pizza! AND Mortino Pie

June 26th – 3:39pm

So, today is officially Sarah’s birthday. We decided to go to the Hot Springs in Nangulvi to celebrate. We got really lucky and caught a ride with some foreigners who were already heading there. They seem to be two couples biking (at least the down hill bits) across South America. We got a ride with their Ecuadorian guide who might be the safest driver in all of Ecuador (this is rare!). We got to enjoy the views from the truck bed without being bounced around like popcorn. It was awesome. When we got to Apuela, we thought the jig was up and we’d have to hitch another ride, but the guide asked us where we were going and they happened to be going to the same place.

When we got to Nangulvi, we decided to eat lunch at the restaurant first. It was the strangest, but probably most authentic, Ecuadorian food ever. We got Tree Tomato juice, which was pretty tasty. It came with a soup that I still don’t quite know the contents and then the main meal was some kind of meat (not sure, because it seemed to be mostly fat) in a peanut butter-like sauce with potatoes, rice, and fried yellow plantains. It was really, really strange. But for $2.50, why the hell not? When in Ecuador… do as the Ecuadorians do.

During our lunch, it poured rain outside, so everyone at the pools left. When the rain finally stopped, we had them all to ourselves. I’m not sure if I liked or disliked the pools. Frankly, they didn’t seem very authentic. They were just tiled, heated pools. And some of them were really gross and dirty. We stayed out of those and stuck to the cleanest ones. Thank god.

After the pools, we went into the Gift Shop, which also operated as a internet service place. We took the opportunity and checked our e-mail. I also took some time to shop. They had all kinds of artisan stuff from Intag. I got some Rio Intag Free-Trade Coffee for my grandparents and bought a Cabuya Fiber bag. More on that later.

After that, we caught a ride back to Apuela, bought two boxes of wine, and then caught a ride back to Pucara.

To celebrate Sarah’s birthday, we had a special pizza dinner. This was really good. We also had birthday pie (yes, pie. not, cake.) which was made with Alpine blueberries. Pretty good but crammed with so many blueberries. Insane.

Then Dan built a birthday bonfire. We sat around for a couple hours talking and now, it’s bed time.

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 21 – Back to Otavalo…

June 24 – 2:48pm

Sarah and I did Vuelta de Oso today. We decided to carry everything we needed for Otavalo and then catch the bus from the trail. This worked out pretty well, because we got to catch one of the mid-day buses which are not nearly as busy as the 7:00am, 7:30am, or 3:00pm buses. We got seats and everything. It was nice for a change.

(Bad news bears ---- No bears heard today)

When we got to Otavalo, Sarah and I went ahead to check in at the Hostel. Another good surprise, we got a double room to ourselves and didn’t have to share a room with the guys this time. Definitely a plus. No farting or mooning to be had. Sweet.

After checking in, we went to find a lunch spot. While walking around we saw a sign boasting a 4-course meal special for $3.80. We were like, “Why the hell not!” This place is called Aly Allpa and specializes (or, so they say) in Grilled cuisine.

So, the 4-course part is kind of a lie. It came with a really nice and hearty soup, a grilled chicken filet with rice and salad, and a piece of chocolate cake. What’s the fourth course? It was the drink… Haha. The meal came with a fresh made blackberry juice. Everything was pretty good, with the exception of the chicken. The chicken filet looked like it had been beaten to a pulp in order to make it flat and appear larger. It also didn’t taste as though a grill had been anywhere near it. The chocolate cake was very good, but it was such a small piece, you really couldn’t enjoy it.

After Sarah and I ate lunch, we went on the search for a couple of things in the market. Sarah is set to climb Machu Picchu in Peru in a couple of weeks and she didn’t pack enough warm clothes. Apparently, Machu Picchu is freezing and it’s a four-day hike to the top. So, we needed to find her a warm hat and a scarf. For cheap. We found her a beanie for $2 and a similar scarf for $3. If I were her, I would have gone for one of the Alpaca scarfs… SOOOO warm.

Once, we found those, we walked past an art vendor with some really amazing work. In Otavalo, if you even remotely show interest in something, the vendor latches onto you like a hawk. This is where Sarah and I became Team-Haggle. The vendor saw four paintings that we liked and pulled them all down for us to look at side-by-side. Once he told us the prices he wanted, we were like “No way.” and went to walk away. He wanted $70 for the painting I wanted and $60 for the painting Sarah wanted. We both weren’t prepared to pay that price. We said we’d pay twenty each, but he wouldn’t have that. Finally, we came to an agreement of $55 for both. We basically got them for over half off, so we were pretty stoked.

I bought more presents for back home and I can’t wait to give them to everybody.

After a little more shopping, we went back to the Hostel to meet up with the guys and Kerry. Then, we went to dinner at Pizza Siciliana (a pizza place Kerry recommended). This is an expensive pizza place… just saying. It might be good but I think $18 for pizza in Ecuador is a bit much, especially considering we had a similar size and quality pizza the week before for $5.80. But, it was for Sarah’s birthday and it was good.

After that, we hit the streets and danced with the locals. This was so fun! Loved it!

Sarah did a birthday Tequila shot. This was the darkest tequila I’ve ever seen. It looked sooooo gross. I don’t know how she got it down. I would have thrown up.

All around, it was a good night!

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 20 – First Seriously Sick Day

June 23rd – 2:38pm

So, I couldn’t walk today. Something about last night’s dinner didn’t settle well in my stomach.

Last night was Wednesday night game night, which was fun. We had a table full with Carl, Will, John, and Judy here. Plus, it was Mayke (Mik-a)’s birthday. Mayke is the educational coordinator here for the International Homestay program. She is from Holland. We played spoons (i.e. Ecuadorian Pilsener bottle caps). It was fun.

I believe it was the beer that made me sick. It’s pretty much the shittiest beer I’ve ever had (which isn’t saying much). We also had Chinese Rice for dinner and I just don’t think the two combined well in my stomach.

When I woke up and got the news that the two trails were Tabla Chupa and Paramo, I knew I couldn’t do it. Both are at high altitude and that makes me dizzy. Dizzy and nauseous just don’t go together.

My choice in not going kind of benefited everybody. Kerry and Dan had a bet going over who could beat the other to the top of Paramo. So, without me dawdling behind, they could actually race. I totally thought Kerry would kick Dan’s butt, considering he’s a smoker and Kerry is way more adapted to the altitude. However, it didn’t go that way and Dan won. The wager was that if Dan beat Kerry to the top, he would get to smoke a cigarette. So, he did.

Fun times in Ecuador.

Tomorrow, we all are headed to Otavalo to celebrate Sarah’s birthday. She turns 26 on Sunday. Apparently, there’s a big festival in Otavalo this weekend. Exciting.

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 19 – Feeling Better

June 22nd – 2:31pm

Today, I hiked Cazapamba with Kerry, Carl, Jon, and Judy. Jon and Judy are another set of friends from California that came to Ecuador to see Kerry. They’re an older couple, but I really can’t peg them. They say they’re just friends, but I don’t know about that. They’re very nice.

I felt a bit proud of myself today. Cazapamba was the first hike I did here in Ecuador and it was so hard the first day. I couldn’t keep up with anyone and didn’t really care to try… But today, I was leading the pack most of the way up. It felt so much easier than the first time. I doubt I could keep up with the boys even at this point, but I’m definitely getting fitter. I’m quite proud to tell the truth.

Not only was today a good day in that respect, we also heard Frida straight off the bat and got four really solid points on her. That felt good too. I think I’m finally getting a feel for this radio telemetry thing.

Leaving on a good note…

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 18 – Paso Alto

June 21st – 4:32pm

Today started bright and early at 5:00am. The community asked if some volunteers from the Bear House would do a nature walk with some school children from the Intag Region. We, of course, said yes and I was pretty stoked. We were going to be walking through a protected nature preserve called Paso Alto.

We were told it was going to be a super easy hike. They lied. It was like 90 children and a hike straight up to the top of a mountain. They told the library coordinator that it would be easy enough for her to carry her baby the whole way up. Again, they lied. It was a crazy intense hike. I didn’t even make it to the top, because I lost sight of everyone and decided it would be safest just to turn around and meet back up with Carolina (the coordinator) and to help her with the baby. One of the hippy guys, Carl, had been helping her most of the way and when I found them, they knew they wouldn’t make it to the top. So, we all turned around together.

This hike was so hard, I ran out of water. I was so dehydrated, I drank out of an Ecuadorian waterfall. This is something you’re never supposed to do… ever. But I did it and I’m really lucky it didn’t make me sick. My stomach is stronger than I thought.

This was an 8 hour hike with 5 hours of driving too. It was the longest day and I’ve never been so excited to eat Shepherd’s pie and go to bed.

So tired….

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 17 – Kicking Global Ass

June 20th – 4:20pm

Had a pretty uneventful day. Nothing special. We had a horrible time getting up and around this morning. I think everyone is kind of exhausted.

We had a pretty boring breakfast. The same scrambled eggs we seem to always have and fried plantains.

After that, Sarah and I were headed for Tabla Chupa. However, it had rained the night before and we weren’t sure if we’d be able to do it. When we got there, Alberto said it wouldn’t be safe. So, we did Vuelta again. This is like the 4th time I’ve done Vuelta, so I’m pretty much over it.

The coolest thing we learned was that a puma lives in the area and killed a family’s sheep. Sweet! A puma!

We came home pretty early and went to Apuela for two hours to check e-mails and shop around. Got some yogurt, a coke, and some bleach. My socks weren’t white anymore, but they are now! Ha, bitches.

Caught a ride back to Pucara with two old Gringos who just bought a house here in Pucara. Definitely seemed like the kind of guys whose wives divorced them and decided to leave the country.

Kerry, the volunteer coordinator, finally got back today. And what did she bring with her? Two of her buddies from California who have been traveling through South America for like a year. Totally hippy dudes with long hair who haven’t showered in a week. Really cool, nice guys though. Lots of experiences and like pro world travelers. Africa, most of South America, and Europe. They’re kicking global ass. Pretty sweet.

Super tired today. Looking forward to dinner and bed.

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley

Day 16 – Down Day

June 19th – 4:17pm

Today, I did absolutely nothing. Slept in till noon. Ate lunch. Painted in Pucara (only words). Ate Dinner. Went to bed.

Nothing Excited… Not at all. Kind of needed the rest though. Been going, going, going for 2 weeks now.

Love and Andean Bears,
Ashley